Photography by Kit Edwards
Down neon-lit stairs and through a curtained doorway in Melbourne’s Chinatown, Bar Clara offers respite from the city noise. Since opening in 2019, owner and general manager, Joel McKenzie, has built its reputation for consistency, restraint, and connection.
McKenzie’s approach is grounded in early experiences around the table.
“Special dinners with family and friends were a highlight growing up,” he says, pointing to a childhood shaped by the produce and wine culture of the Yarra Valley. A job in a city wine bar while studying sealed it.
“I fell in love with the special intimacy that sharing good food and drink provides – and the rest is history.”
Opening Bar Clara just before the world shut down due to Covid was not part of the plan.
“It’s been a ride. The pandemic wasn’t something we could ever have planned for. I jumped in my car and delivered our now famous mulled wine while waiting to reopen almost two years later.”
When the doors did reopen, the surge was immediate. “Everyone was super thirsty for about 18 months,” he says, before the reality of rising costs set in. The response was measured.
“Staying lean where we could while still providing the experience of welcome and authenticity people need allowed us to see it through.”
The venue’s location is no accident and is central to the experience.
“Melbourne has always championed the hidden gem. When guests step down those neon lit stairs and through the curtained door, it removes them from the hustle of everyday life and sets the mood. Rock’n’roll and hanging off the ceiling can be a lot of fun, but with Bar Clara we wanted to create a space that promoted genuine connection. For us, excellence in that is an expression of care.”
It is a philosophy that is carried by the whole team.
“Having people on board who are genuinely welcoming and committed to an excellent experience because they care is the secret sauce,” he says.
Technical skill matters, but it’s not the priority. The goal is simple: make people feel looked after without overworking the room. Behind the bar, that same thinking applies to the drinks.
“Working with quality produce has always been important to us,” McKenzie says. “Ingredients like beetroot, fennel, or sesame oil are challenging and inspiring all at once.” At Bar Clara, cocktails are treated as complete experiences. “Concept definitely plays a part… story is where emotional connection is built.”
Some drinks have gone further than expected. The Banoffee Special, originally just one option on the opening list, has become a fixture.
“People started coming back for it and haven’t stopped. I suppose pie in a glass is hard to resist.”
It remains on every menu iteration – along with one ongoing issue: “People need to stop stealing the travelling spoons.”
The current menu, Greatest Hits: Remixed, reflects on the past without standing still. McKenzie explains the returning drinks are not a simple rehash, but redeveloped to reflect where the bar is now.
“We are at a point of looking ahead to what’s next and in that, we wanted to celebrate where we have come from.”
A curated playlist runs alongside the menu, reinforcing the bar’s broader, sensory-driven approach. “I think it is going to be a lot of fun,” he says.
Service at Bar Clara walks the line between structure and flexibility.
“I am a big fan of taking the lead in service, allowing guests to relax and feel like they are being looked after. But we do often mix it up – working with guests on a custom drink or bringing the bill early so they can get to a show.”
McKenzie says they are always refining to provide “an enduring place of warmth and connection while always keeping an eye to how we can bring the experience to the next level.”
He is also considering expansion but only if it aligns. “One of the challenges there is finding people who share our particular vision of good hospitality that prioritises human connection and sees excellence as care.”
In a bustling city, Bar Clara sticks to what works – tight execution, genuine hospitality, and no interest in being the loudest room in town.