When the scent of charcoal drifts down Portland Lane, you’ll know exactly where you are. Yamagen is coming to Melbourne – and it’s arriving with intent.
Opening February at QT Melbourne, the award-winning Japanese dining destination brings modern izakaya energy to the city with fire, finesse, and a serious sense of theatre.
At the helm is Culinary Director Adam Lane, whose menus balance Japanese discipline with Victorian produce. Think flamed spanner crab, scallop sashimi with citrus, and wagyu. Every dish is restrained but expressive – umami-driven, clean and built for impact.
The drinks program is a destination in itself. Over 45 sake varieties, cocktails built around matcha, yuzu and umeshu, and a whisky collection that runs more than 120 labels deep. Rare Japanese bottlings sit alongside cult favourites, including once-in-a-generation pours like Hakushu 1981 Kioke Shikomi and Yamazaki 25-Year-Old.
The team behind the pass reads like a hospitality all-stars list. Christine Vu (formerly of The Ritz-Carlton and Nobu) leads the floor with calm authority and polish, while Andrew Lam (ex-Mandarin Hotel Hong Kong and Langham Hong Kong) curates a wine and sake program designed for Melbourne’s palate. In the kitchen, Head Cheuf Yosuke Hatanaka (formerly Saké and Kisumé) and Sous Chef Misaki Maniwa (Yugen Dining) bring technical depth and quiet precision.
Designed by Luchetti Krelle, the space is equal parts control and chaos. An open robata anchors the room, chefs move in rhythm, cocktails are mixed like a performance, and every corner hums with understated luxury. There’s a private dining room for omakase and after-dark sessions – because some dinners deserve their own curtain call.
Inspired by Japan and grounded in Melbourne, Yamagen walks the line between refined and rebellious and is ready for a Melbourne debut like no other.